Tryfan from near Ogwen
Tryfan from near Ogwen

Contents

Overview

Trail magazine once voted Tryfan Britain's favourite mountain, and you can see why from the A5. Its jagged fin of rock rises straight out of the Ogwen Valley to 917.5m in the Glyderau, and there is no walking route to the top: whichever way you go, you'll need your hands. On the summit stand two tall pillars of rock called Adam and Eve, and stepping from one to the other is said to win you the Freedom of Tryfan.

The loop starts at the Ogwen Centre car park and follows the A5 east along the shore of Llyn Ogwen for just under a mile, to the lay-bys below Milestone Buttress. From there you climb the North Ridge, the mountain's most famous route and a Grade 1 scramble: a path beside a wall gets you onto the broad lower ridge, then it's hands on past the Cannon Stone, up the Nose and over the North Tower to the summit at about 1.8 miles. The way down is the South Ridge, also Grade 1 but shorter and easier, to the stone wall at Bwlch Tryfan. A clear path then drops west into Cwm Bochlwyd, past Llyn Bochlwyd and down beside its stream to join the stone path from Cwm Idwal for the last stretch back to Ogwen. This is a short walk but a serious one, for experienced, well-equipped hillwalkers who are happy using their hands on exposed rock. This walk takes in one Pennant: Tryfan. Find all 136 on our Pennants map.

Go prepared, stay safe,
and enjoy the hike!

Key Info

Distance3.5 mi
Time3½–4½ hrs
Ascent613 m
DifficultyHard
Our Rating
Route TypeCircular
SignageLow
ToiletsAt the Start

The Route

Distance3.5mi
Ascent613m
Highest917.5m
0 mi3.5 mi

Disclaimer: Route information and GPX files are provided for general guidance only. Conditions can change, so always use your own judgement and navigate responsibly. See our Terms of Use & Disclaimer for more information.

Route Guide

  1. 1

    Beside Llyn Ogwen1.0 mi · 16m up · 14m downFrom the Ogwen Centre car park, walk out to the A5 and follow it east along the south shore of Llyn Ogwen, passing the free car park at about 0.5 miles. This is a busy main road, so take care. Just under a mile from the start, below the grey crag of Milestone Buttress, go through the kissing gate on your right by the lay-bys.

  2. 2

    Up by Milestone Buttress0.4 mi · 362m upFollow the path uphill beside a stone wall, keeping left of Milestone Buttress, then climb a bouldery shelf onto the broad lower ridge. Ignore the Heather Terrace path that branches off to the left and keep to the middle of the ridge, where polished, scratched rock shows the well-used lines. The Cannon Stone, a slab jutting out at about 45 degrees, comes at about 1.4 miles.

  3. 3

    The North Ridge Scramble0.4 mi · 225m up · 5m downAbove the Cannon Stone the lines come together on a flat platform below a rocky nose. Climb it straight up the middle, where the holds are big. Higher up, go up and over the North Tower rather than traversing round it, then make a careful step down into a notch and scramble up clean rock to the summit and the stones of Adam and Eve, at about 1.8 miles.

  4. 4

    Down the South Ridge0.4 mi · 171m downCarry on south past the South Peak. The South Ridge is also a Grade 1 scramble but shorter and easier, mostly a bouldery walk, and the path keeps to the west of the Far South Peak. It brings you down to Bwlch Tryfan, the col with a stone wall and ladder stile, at about 2.2 miles. Don't cross the wall: the rocky ridge beyond it is Bristly Ridge.

  5. 5

    Into Cwm Bochlwyd0.7 mi · 271m downTurn right at the wall onto the clear path heading north-west down into Cwm Bochlwyd. Follow it down to Llyn Bochlwyd, where there are good views back to Glyder Fach, and cross the stream where it flows out of the lake at about 2.9 miles.

  6. 6

    Down Beside the Falls0.6 mi · 141m downGo down the steep path on the west bank of Nant Bochlwyd as the stream tumbles towards the valley. At about 3.3 miles it meets the stone path from Cwm Idwal; follow that down over the footbridge to the Ogwen Centre.

Use the route on OS Maps, AllTrails or Komoot to navigate on the day; this guide is for planning.

Parking

Start & FinishOgwen Centre SH 648 604 · Postcode LL57 3LZ
Pay & DisplayCard OnlyToilets
Directions

The walk starts from the Ogwen Centre car park beside the A5 at the western end of Llyn Ogwen (LL57 3LZ), run by the Snowdonia National Park Authority. It costs £3 for 4 hours or £6 for the day, and the day ticket runs out at midnight. Most people take 3½ to 4½ hours on this loop, so the day ticket is the safer choice. Payment is by card or contactless only; cash isn't accepted. There are 2 blue badge spaces and EV charge points, and public toilets and a snack bar in the car park. Spaces are limited and fill up quickly at peak times; if it's full, see Alternative Parking. Check the latest prices here.

If you'd rather not drive up the valley, park at Bethesda Football Club car park (£7 a day) and take the Bws Ogwen electric minibus, or catch the TrawsCymru T10 bus, which stops at Ogwen.

Never park on the double yellow lines along the A5.

*Prices correct at time of writing; check before you travel.

Alternative Parking

A free lay-by off the A5 with space for around 9 cars. It fills up as quickly as the main car park, so if you pass it with a space, take it. With the lay-by behind you, walk right along the A5 to Ogwen Cottage, by the start.
A free car park off the A5 beside Llyn Ogwen, with space for around 50 cars. It fills up as quickly as the main car park. With the car park behind you, walk left along the A5 to Ogwen Cottage, by the start.
Bethesda Football Club car park, the Snowdonia National Park Authority's suggestion when Ogwen is full. It's pay and display at £7 a day. Catch the Bws Ogwen electric bus or the TrawsCymru T10 from the village bus stops up to Ogwen. The gate is closed overnight.

Facilities & Hospitality

Ogwen Centre Toilets
Toilets

Public toilets and showers at the Cwm Idwal Centre in the Ogwen car park, right at the start and finish, open 24 hours a day.

Ogwen Snack Bar
Food & drink

In the same building as the toilets, the snack bar sells drinks, snacks, pasties and locally baked cakes. Its opening hours aren't published.

Weather

Hike Videos

Note: Videos are made by other walkers, not The Lost Peak. They may not follow this exact route, and paths, conditions and facilities may have changed since filming.

Llyn OgwenLlyn OgwenOutflow from Llyn OgwenLlyn OgwenBochlwyd ButtressButtress and gully on TryfanTryfan, with a tent belowLlyn BochlwydLlyn BochlwydThe stone path back to OgwenThe stone path near OgwenA perched rock beside the pathTryfan from the path to OgwenOn the boardwalk near OgwenTryfan above the stream near OgwenThe stream near OgwenGate on the path at Ogwen, Tryfan behindTryfan from near OgwenTryfan through a slate marker at Ogwen

Hints & Tips

Over the North Tower, Not Round It

Lots of people come unstuck at the North Tower, the last big step before the summit. Paths sneaking round its eastern side lead onto the climbers' traverse and towards North Gully, which is harder ground. Aim straight up over the top of the tower instead, and you'll come out with the whole Ogwen Valley below you.

Gullies in the Cloud

Plenty of gullies split off the North Ridge, and picking the wrong one leads onto much harder rock. Mountain rescue are often called out to people lost in cloud or stuck in Tryfan's gullies, so save this walk for a day when the tops are clear and you can see the line of the ridge.

Find the Cannon Stone

About a third of the way up the ridge, the Cannon Stone sticks out of the crags at around 45 degrees, like a gun aimed at the sky. It's one of the best photo spots on the mountain, but you can't see it from every line, so keep to the middle of the ridge on the way up.

Adam and Eve at Your Own Risk

Adam and Eve are about 3m tall and 1.2m apart, with a big drop on one side. The National Trust warns that the exposure is not to be underestimated, so only try the leap if you're completely sure of yourself, and never in wind or on wet rock.

Buy the Day Ticket

Ogwen's £3 ticket only lasts 4 hours, which is cutting it fine for a loop most people take 3½ to 4½ hours over, before you add a stop on the summit. The £6 day ticket lasts until midnight. Bring a card, as the machines don't take cash.

A Winter Mountaineering Route

Under snow and ice the North Ridge is a serious winter climb. The BMC says ice axes and crampons are most definitely needed in full winter conditions, along with the skills to use them, so leave it until spring unless you have them.

Interesting Facts

General

Lake of the Greycheek

Named the "Lake of the Greycheek", Llyn Bochlwyd is the lake you pass on the way down. Local legend says an old grey stag escaped a hunter here by leaping from a great height into the water and swimming to safety with its grey cheeks held above the surface

A Few Metres Taller

Tryfan's height was given as 915m for about 25 years, from the mid-1980s until 2010, when a GPS survey found it 2.4m higher, at 917.5m. Surveys from before the 1980s had also recorded the higher figure

Everest's Practice Ground

George Mallory made his first two British rock climbs on Tryfan in 1907, and Edmund Hillary's Everest team trained here, testing their oxygen equipment and practising rescues, before he and Tenzing Norgay reached the top of Everest on 29 May 1953

Mountain Goats

Feral goats live on Tryfan and the neighbouring Glyderau. They leap about the boulders and come down to lower ground for shelter when the rain clouds roll in

The Leap From Adam to Eve

Painting of the parson Peter Bailey Williams leaping between Adam and Eve on Tryfan's summit as William Bingley looks on, with Llyn Ogwen far below

Perched above the drop of the mountain's eastern face, two pillars of rock crown Tryfan's summit, each about 3m high and 1.2m apart. In English they're Adam and Eve; in Welsh, Siôn a Siân. Stepping or jumping from one to the other has long been said to give you the Freedom of Tryfan.

One of the earliest recorded leaps was made by a country parson. Peter Bailey Williams, born in Carmarthenshire in 1763, became rector of Llanrug and Llanberis in 1792 and stayed there for the rest of his life. In 1798, while acting as a guide for the botanist William Bingley, he led what is thought to be the first recorded rock climb in Britain, probably on the East Terrace of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon. On another outing he took Bingley up from Cwm Idwal over Tryfan and the two Glyders, and on Tryfan's summit he gave his guest a fright by leaping from Adam to Eve.

More than two centuries on, the gap is no smaller. The writer Frank Showell Styles reckoned the step was not too hard on a calm, dry day, but that the price of getting it wrong would be about as unpleasant as it gets. The National Trust calls the leap dangerous and says it is only for those who try it at their own risk.

A Knight's Grave on Tryfan

Painting of early Welsh warriors laying Bedwyr to rest beneath a cairn on the slopes of Tryfan at dusk

Medieval Welsh poets kept their own list of where the heroes of legend lie buried. Called the Englynion y Beddau, or Stanzas of the Graves, it survives in the Black Book of Carmarthen, copied in the 13th century, though scholars think some of its verses may have been composed in the 9th or 10th century. One of its stanzas says that the grave of Bedwyr is on the wooded slope of Tryfan.

In the earliest Welsh stories Bedwyr is one of King Arthur's greatest warriors. He's called Bedwyr Bedrydant, Bedwyr of the Perfect Sinew, and he's a one-handed warrior: a 10th-century poem, Pa gur, says enemies fell by the hundred before him. In the tale of Culhwch and Olwen he stands with Cei at the head of Arthur's court, carries a magic spear that makes nine wounds, and helps hunt down the great boar Twrch Trwyth.

Later writers turned him into Sir Bedivere. In Thomas Malory's Le Morte d'Arthur he stays with the dying Arthur after the last battle and is sent to throw Excalibur into the water. Twice he can't bring himself to do it, and when he finally does, a hand rises from the water, catches the sword and draws it under. Bedivere spends the rest of his days as a hermit. If the old poem is right, the knight who returned Excalibur lies somewhere on the mountain you've just climbed.

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